Butch Cassidy’s Patagonia Ranch: Tracing the Trail of a Legend

 

The Legend of Butch Cassidy

When you’re a fugitive, with the best detective agency in the Americas on your trail, being 16 hundred miles from anywhere important is probably a good tactic.

It was 1901 when Butch Cassidy, the affable leader of the Wild Bunch gang, known for a streak of railroad heists and bank robberies in the American West, took his “winnings” to Argentina, a country that would cultivate a reputation for concealing notorious refugees. Seeking a quieter life, Cassidy and his two companions Henry Longbaugh (The Sundance Kid) and Etta Place (Sundance’s girlfriend and possible wife) settled in the town of Cholila at the base of the Andes known as the Pre-Corderrilla, near the Chilean border. There they bought a homestead and 12,000 acres of land, determined to go straight and lay low.

The Pinkerton Detective Agency, who had been after the gang in the United States, was not directly involved in tracking Cassidy to South America. Pinkerton could not close the deal to finance Butch’s capture. But by 1903 they knew his whereabouts in South America, and there was a bounty of $10,000 on the heads of the Wild Bunch.

The “family of 3” managed to scrape out a living with a few hundred cattle and a thousand sheep, becoming well-respected in the Corderrilla. But two factors made a peaceable life impossible. The first was the bounty. The second, of course, is that trouble finds troublemakers and after five years as a citizen, Butch reunited with some former “colleagues” who found their way to Cholila.

By 1905, the re-minted Wild Bunch was at it again, taking their act to a bank in Santa Cruz and two years later another bank in San Luis. With the increased scrutiny from law enforcement, it was time to go. Etta returned to the States while Butch sold the ranch and made for Bolivia with Sundance.

How the legendary outlaws died is a mystery. Historians favor the murder-suicide theory while the pair were trapped, surrounded by scores of soldiers, in Bolivia. Other legends have them meeting their fate in Uruguay. The most intriguing theory is that Butch faked his own death in Bolivia and simply went home to Utah. A credible account by Cassidy’s sister places him in Circleville, Utah in 1925 and later dying in Washington State. Unfortunately, all attempts to find his remains have failed.

The most popularized fiction has the men dying in a Bolivian firefight, trapped in a building and surrounded by the Bolivian Army. That’s the version told in the 1969 movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Tired, wounded, out of options, the men burst from the structure to meet their fate in a blaze of glory. If you haven’t seen the movie yet, it’s worth a watch. Ironically, however, the movie did not include the gang’s time in Argentina.

As is the nature of folk heroes, following his death, Cassidy could be found fraternizing with Pancho Villa in Mexico, driving model Ts through the American West, prospecting in Alaska, and touring San Francisco, probably with Elvis.

And the fate of the land? Although occupied as recently as 25 years ago by a Chilean family, today the Cassidy ranch is abandoned. Bruce Chatwin, in In Patagonia, described his own hunt for the Cassidy ranch in 1974. “The countryside had not changed much since the turn of the century. The cabins were in decay, but the structures still stood.” Although there isn’t much left today, fans of the movie would be enthralled by this site. That is certainly what drove me and Cyndy to track down the ranch. I wasn’t easy …

Crossing the Chilean - Argentine Border to Bariloche

The border crossing from Puerto Montt to Bariloche is 8 hours, partly because it takes a long time to get through two border crossings: one at Chile and another in Argentina. I have never seen such a border crossing. Each one takes an hour, at least. This turns out to be a more challenging passage than we originally expected. Taking a rental car across the border into Argentina is prohibitively expensive. Even “puddle jumper” service between the cities is absent. The least bad option seems to be a bus.

These are some pictures of the Argentine border with its towering mountains (and a flag), desiccated forests and motorcycle enthusiasts who drive through Patagonia. Mostly they come from Germany or France. We’re not sure why the forests were destroyed. Possibly from a volcano eruption about 10 years earlier.

On Our Way to San Carlos de Bariloche

San Carlos de Bariloche, or Bariloche, is a city in Argentine Patagonia, located at the edge of Nahuel Huapi National Park. Founded in 1902, it aimed to capitalize on the region’s natural beauty, attracting European immigrants, particularly from Germany and Switzerland, who influenced its distinctive Alpine-style architecture. The expansion of the Argentine railway system helped make Bariloche a popular tourist destination, especially for winter sports at Cerro Catedral, which opened in the 1930s.

The city also became notable during World War II, serving as a refuge for various expatriates, some with controversial backgrounds. Today, Bariloche is famous for its chocolate shops, vibrant food scene, and outdoor activities like hiking and skiing. With a population of around 100,000, it blends its rich history with a lively modern atmosphere, making it a captivating stop for those exploring Patagonia.

The bus finally got us to the charming tourist town of Bariloche. It sits along the glacial, alpine lake Nahuel Huapi. It is immense and absolutely pristine. It reminded me of Tahoe but prettier, deeper, bigger.

From there we picked up our rental car to begin the search for the ranch in Cholila, 3.5 hours south. They had bought the property with the money they made robbing banks in Montana and Utah. That was when The Union Pacific hired the Pinkerton Detective Agency to bring them in dead or alive. The bounty was over $10,000 for the two bank robbers. More on that later.

Late in the afternoon, we skirted the dusty road of Bariloche and headed South with Nahuel Huapi on our right. The sun was descending as we drove and made the Pre-cordillera mountains fierce and fiery. The sky felt like passion and love.

Very soon afterward, it was dark. Nothing buy us, the winding road and the occasional 18 wheeler.

Arrival in Cholila

Cholila was founded in the late 1800s, primarily as a settlement for settlers drawn to the region’s fertile land. The town became a key location for agriculture and livestock farming, which remain significant to its economy today. Throughout the early 20th century, it developed a reputation as a rugged frontier town. The surrounding area was once home to indigenous Mapuche communities, and remnants of their history can still be found. Cholila's remote location contributed to its slower development, allowing it to retain a more laid-back atmosphere compared to other Argentine towns. This blend of history and natural beauty continues to shape its identity today.

We arrived in the town of Cholila in the dead of night.

Our GPS told us to drive across 10 more miles of dirt roads to get to the place we’re staying - La Pilarica. Mostly fisherman go there to relax and fly fish the nearby river. Bill and Vivian run the place and were there when we arrived close to midnight. Bill had hand built the hostel 19 years ago and he and his wife run it. They did quite a job!

Through bits of Spanish and English Bill told me his family had come to the region early in the 20th century. His grandfather ran a mule team (160 mules) that hauled wool from Cholila to Puerto Madryn on the Atlantic coast. Nasty work. Bill said, he was known as the best mule team operator in southern Chile. And he probably knew Butch. Everyone did, because everyone in the town loved him, Etta and Sundance though they probably didn’t know who, precisely, they were, including the mayor and sheriff. One hundred and twenty years later later the town hasn’t changed much.

The Search for the Butch Cassidy Ranch

After breakfast provided by Bill and Vivian, we began searching for the outlaws. We passed some local gauchos down the road, waved and then bounce onto Cholila. We knew to look for the police because the ranch house is supposedly near by.

On the road outside of town, we found Cholila’s one local policeman. He seemed terrified to see me. I ask if he knew where Cassidy’s ranch was and he indicates up the road to the right but I don’t understand a word of detail and he doesn’t understand any of my English. “Donde esta casa de Butch Cassidy” is the best I can do. We continue into the pampa. See the video for more.

On the search we find a small ranch. I think maybe this is it. But it isn’t. A local, quite toothless but very helpful, sits with me. I suggest a map and we work on that, drawing pictures in the dirt. Then we head off again in a new direction. For miles we bounce along until we hit a creek too deep to risk fording in our little VW. As we prepare to head back, we run into some German tourists who speak English. They give us specific directions. And we head back another way much closer to the police station!! That’s me talking to them in their car.

Found Butch Cassidy’s!!!

We made it! Signs all around saying “Cassidy” confirm our hunch. The grounds are unattended, but we are helped along by arrows pointing to the closed, but inviting gate. We pass through to wander the remains.

The ranch features several original structures, including a main house built from sturdy timber and stone, reflecting practical construction. The house is simple, unadorned, with a sturdy porch offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscape, which is breathtaking. Inside, the layout is modest, with basic living spaces that would have accommodated Cassidy and his gang. It is mostly walls and spaces, however. Little remains besides the structures.

Other buildings on the site include old barns and stables, used for livestock and storage. I cannot tell which were for cattle and which were for horses. These buildings are showing signs of age, the wood weathering and the metal rusting. The remnants of corrals and fencing can still be seen, hinting at the ranch's functional past. It is not much different, I imagine, than what Chatwin saw nearly fifty years earlier.

Please watch the video series to take a stroll of the grounds and enjoy the photos below.

Full playlist of all videos from the Butch Cassidy ranch.

Pretty nice for 1901. Here are some still interiors of the living room, kitchen and a bedroom (I think).

Departing the Ranch

Afterwards we find a bar nearby that has a museum loaded with details about the ranch and the Hole in the Wall Gang that Butch Cassidy ran. That’s where you see the color video of Butch bottom right and Sundance bottom left. The other picture gives you a view of the mountains from the ranch. Looks a lot like Montana where Cassidy grew up. It’s easy to see why Butch would have liked it here.

I am catching up on some notes about tracking down the ranch that Butch Cassidy, the Sundance kid and Etta Place bought in Argentina after they were forced to leave the United States when they robbed so many banks and trains that an elite private posse was created to them down. They bought the ranch in 1901 and lived there five and seven years give or take. They actually became real citizens in the small town of Cholila, Argentina. They knew the mayor and became friends with a former sheriff from Montana (possibly inspired by the sheriff they meet in the movie). They lived a relatively quiet life - until some of the posse began to get close. At the time there was a bounty on each of their heads of $10,000 which was an enormously high price in those days. They sold the ranch, Etta Place returned to the United States, and Butch and Harry (the Sundance kid) headed north to Bolivia. Their time living in Argentina at the ranch isn’t mentioned in the famous movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid but they did eventually work in a mine in Bolivia and they may have robbed that mine, or they finally went back and made a big bank robbery in Bolivia and that was win the Banditos Yanquees were gunned down in that country. Or at least that’s what most people think. But some say that both survived and Butch Cassidy’s sister swears that her brother came back and visited her in Montana in the 1930s.

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid - 1969 Movie

 

Of course, our inspiration for taking this side quest into Cholila comes from the love of both history and western cinema that naturally includes the 1969 Butch Cassidy film. If you enjoy stories of outlaws, the wild west, gangs, and heists, it’s probably your kind of movie too. Our contributor Drew Moniot (of Drew’s Reviews) kindly agreed to review of the film for us. Read his review of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and then go watch the movie again!

Lovers of cinema, history and the wild west will also enjoy our Dispatches from Deadwood, South Dakota and Monument Valley, in particular (plus all of those in between). We talk about gunfighters and movie magic. Please check those out.

Recommendations

If you’re planning a trip to Cholila (and check out the Cassidy ranch for yourself), or anywhere else in Patagonia, we have many recommendations for you to consider. These are all personally recommended from our own experience. And please see the full list of our travel recommendations from around the world or these recommendations exclusively for Patagonia.

Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/the-hunt-for-butch-cassidys-ranch-in-cholila-argentina

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Adventure through Patagonia: Top 10 Experiences to Enjoy

 

Sprawled across the southernmost tip of South America, far away from the cramped and entangled cities of North America, lies Patagonia. It’s a big unspoiled wilderness, an antidote to urban life, and, unless you’ve lost your senses entirely, or your last sliver of curiosity, it will captivate you. Monstrous glaciers, spectacular and unique wildlife (condors to guanaco), towering Andean peaks that run down the region’s spine, and on either side its endless pampas and shimmering lakes. If you want heat, Patagonia will deliver that, or bitter cold, and winds that will knock you sideways.

You can hike the world-renowned Torres del Paine National Park, marvel at the imposing Perito Moreno Glacier, or lose yourself in the wild serenity of Tierra del Fuego, a land Charles Darwin explored 150 years ago. And, if you’re up for it, there are plenty of exciting ways to get well off the beaten path: kayaking, white-water rafting, horseback-riding, weeklong hikes into the wilderness, even ice-climbing on Patagonia’s glacier fields. It’s an enormous place that spans two nations and reaches to the South Ocean and some of the most ferocious seas on earth. All you have to do is get there.

I first entered Patagonia from the northwest, heading from Peru to make my way down Chile’s coast to the town of Puerto Montt.  There I had booked passage on a ferry called Navimag that would take me to Puerto Natales, Patagonia’s southern gateway. I had heard about it during my cruise from Miami to Lima over dinner with an inveterate traveler named Mike, a man who had already scrambled into and around 100 of Earth’s countries.

For five days Navimag coasted me, my wife Cyndy and about 100 other truckers, sailors, travelers and locals through the vast archipelago. I had never seen any part of the world that looked like this — the sea, immense mountain islands, fiery sunsets, a luminescent full moon, all as majestic as anything earthly could be. I struggled to hold it all in my mind because I knew no words could ever do the experience the remotest justice. In one stroke I realized how fortunate I was to witness this, and how sad to know I would leave it behind.

Patagonia still feels like a frontier, even as its few cities are slowly encroaching upon the wilderness. Sheep roam the steppes nourishing the wool industry that has long been the backbone of the economy, guanaco lope freely, condors arc and sweep across the broad sky in search of dinner, and if you’re lucky enough you may come across a pride of wary Puma. There is history too. Ancient native peoples — the Tehuelche, Yaghan, Ona, Haush and Alacaluf — thrived in these wild places for millennia before the expeditions of Juan Diaz del Solis, Magellan, Robert Fitzroy and others wiped them out. Descendants of these native people, their names and heritage nearly forgotten, now blend into a population of ethnic German, Croatian, English, Criollo, and Mestizo peoples.

Patagonia’s beauty, history and isolation, of course, are the very forces that are expanding the region’s tourism so if you are looking to get off the beaten path, make your move now. Unplug, find solace in the vastness of this place and marvel at its profound silence and unspoiled beauty … at least when the winds aren’t howling.

Here are ten great ways to do it …

1. Lose Yourself in Torres del Paine National Park

The crown jewel of Patagonia. Named for its three famous blue towers the Torres claw their way out of the earth and swallow the sky. The mountains are 60 million year old, igneous rocks that emerged when the magma chamber below bulged upward cooling into a gargantuan hump. The advance and retreat of glaciers over the eons created the immense beasts we see today. They are the sine qua non of Patagonian exploration. Along with the glaciers, valleys, lakes and rivers that surround them, the towers are so big and powerful they generate their own weather.  Together they offer all the adventure you need. Hiking, climbing, horseback riding, kayaking, and more!

Other highlights include Gray Glacier, Cuernos del Paine, and Lake Pehoé. You could easily spend weeks exploring the park. Wildlife lovers will enjoy the guanaco herds grazing on the plains and soaring condors floating on the mountain’s thermal winds.

For visitors there are many available hikes through the park, both leisurely and brutal. Those with time on their hands should consider the O Circuit, a 6-10 day adventure looping around the Cordillera del Paine. This is a challenging hike across 66 miles (110 km). The W Trek is the most popular portion of the O Circuit, taking about half the time to traverse. The W can even be completed without food or equipment, taking advantage of the many campsites along the route.

The Hosteria del Torres is a charming place to stay. There is also the Grey Lake Hotel. For food, consider the Pampa Lodge, Hostería del Torres or Grey Lake.

2. Cruise Tierra del Fuego and Stand at the Tip of Cape Horn

The archipelago across the Strait of Magellan is the southernmost tip of South America. Shared by both Chile and Argentina, the island chain has been inhabited for over 8,000 years. But here, today, the land is nearly empty. This is truly the definition of nowhere, but it’s not easy to get there. Australis operates a five day expedition from Punta Arenas through the islands, pausing to visit some of the most stunning and remote places on Earth. This is where a young Charles Darwin cut his teeth on evolutionary science and the region is filled with stories of adventure and death, from interactions with the native Yahgan and Fuegian people and hair-raising nautical adventures experienced by the likes of Sir Francis Drake, Ferdinand Magellan and Ernest Shackleton.

Australis Zodiacs take hikers from the ship to wild sites that very few people have seen, including a hike to Cape Horn (weather permitting), the southernmost bit of South America. Standing by its single red lighthouse you can imagine Magellan’s fleet sailing past, led by Trinidad. The weather is cold, rarely higher than 45°F in the summer. You won’t find much at the Cape, but visitors will see a tiny chapel and functioning lighthouse and a battered metal sculpture to visit. Enjoy the 270 step hike to the Horn’s highest peak. Unfortunately, the native Yaghan people are gone. Aside from a few Chileans, visitors will only encounter the people you’ve met on the cruise.

Another Australis highlight takes passengers through Glacier Alley fjord offering magnificent views of five tidewater glaciers extending their great tongues of ice from craggy valleys to the waters below.

3. Ferry on the Navimag

Navimag operates a round trip ferry system through the Chilean fjords between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales. This is transport for both locals and serious travelers. The riders hail from all around the world on weeks and month-long excursions to discover some of the most remote locations in the world. These ferries curate a collection of books and movies which, along with shipboard activities, can teach you about Chilean history and culture. Multilingual guides are onboard during the high season from October to April. There’s a charming little, glass-enclosed lounge for reading, daydreaming, conversation and beverages. A great place to pass the time, but not too much. You want to be outside as much as possible.

I enjoyed the cruise on Navimag’s newest vessel, Esperanza, with room for 244 passengers in spacious, but spartan accommodations. The cabins are shared among four or more riders, but two can buy out the whole cabin at a reasonable price. Common activity space is limited. You’ll find a not terribly usable gym, yoga room, and the lounge. Food is served cafeteria style three times a day. It’s good and there’s plenty of it, but it’s the conversations you have at the big tables while eating that are the real bonuses.

The ride is usually four days, but it took five when I made the trip. Sustained winds of 40 mph made it impossible for the ship to wrestle its way to the harbor so we anchored an additional full day. This is not uncommon for this voyage so make sure you have a flexible schedule. Riders can count on Patagonian winds to keep them alert across 10 degrees of southern latitude: 41°S to 51°S. That’s the origin of the saying, “Below 40º (of latitude) there is no law. Below 50º there is no God.”

4. Take a Hike Above Laguna Sofia

Laguna Sofia is about 30 minutes from Puerto Natales and you can reach it via a brand new highway. It may be one of the most underrated destinations in Patagonia. On this day-trek, you’ll climb several hundred vertical feet through grass and trees into scree to a promontory high above the lagoon. Beyond that lay rocky cliffs and snow-capped mountains in every direction. You might even be lucky enough to see a condor perched nearby. The winds, as usual, are out in force, powerful enough to knock you over. A side bonus: unlike other hikes in the Torres area, you can usually expect this one to be deserted.

5. Explore San Carlos de Bariloche

San Carlos de Bariloche is a charming tourist town with a striking resemblance to the Swiss Alps, tucked along the immense and pristine alpine lake Nahuel Huali. If you’re entering Patagonia from the north, Bariloche is a spectacular way to do it. Enjoy it for its scenery, hiking, winter skiing and upscale amenities. Besides the Alpine feel, the town itself underwent a tourism renaissance in the 1930s that added Swiss architectural touches to the town’s architecture. Even its chocolate is famous.   

The region has a strange history too. Bariloche was a refuge for Nazis escaping Europe following World War II. Argentine president Juan Péron was a known Nazi sympathizer who courted European dictators. One legend has it that Hitler faked his death and fled with Eva Braun to Bariloche.

6. Tour Ushuaia

Long regarded as the worlds southernmost city, with protestations from its much smaller Chilean neighbor, Puerto Williams, Ushuaia, also known as the “End of the World” is the capital of Tierra del Fuego province. Dress warm. The climate is an ocean moderated sub polar mild tundra; just a fancy way of calling it “cold.” If you’re looking for counterparts, think of Anchorage, Alaska, Reykjavik, Iceland, and Nuuk Nuuk, Greenland. But don’t let this keep you home.

Ushuaia’s breathtaking landscapes rival any on Earth, with snow-capped peaks, pristine glaciers and sparkling fjords surrounding the city. And it’s the launch point for adventures throughout Tierra del Fuego and beyond. Tierra del Fuego National Park, Martillo Island, and the Beagle Channel are reachable by ship. For those who love winter sports, this is your place. Skiing and ice hockey are immensely popular. The ski resort at Cerro Castor has the longest season in South America, thanks to that sub polar climate.

The End of the World Train takes visitors from Ushuaia on a two hour scenic tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park. The steam railway once transferred Ushuaia’s prisoners into forests where they harvested the lumber that built both the city and the prison in which they lived, the original reason the town was created!

For food, visit warm and vibrant La Parrilla Restaurant, famous for its flame roasted lamb. Hosteria Restaurante America is a good mid-range option for lodging, but if you want more upscale digs, consider the Albatros Hotel.

7. Visit Cueva del Milodón Natural Monument

The huge Mylodon sloths, enormous beasts up to 12 feet tall that roamed the Patagonian landscape thousands of years ago, were the inspiration for Bruce Chatwin’s famous book, In Patagonia. Mylodons’ and their hairy coats were first discovered and cataloged by Darwin during his time with HMS Beagle. Although mylodon extinction is attributed to multiple factors, their disappearance also coincided with the arrival of certain two-legged pack hunter 11,000 years ago.

Cueva del Milodón is located near Puerto Natales. It is not a single cave, but a complex of three, each with a different character. The largest and most popular, Cueva Grande, is impressive for its size and its notoriety for Mylodon preservation. Equally compelling, for different reasons, are the other caves. Cueva del Medio sheltered humans over 11,000 years ago under a less forgiving climate, while the third cave, Cueva Chica, is deeper and darker than the other two. Spelunkers will enjoy exploring Chica’s nooks and crannies.

8. Hunt Down Butch Cassidy’s Ranch

Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid is a classic American western tale (and Oscar-winning movie). Outlaws Butch Cassidy, Harry Longabaugh and Etta Place, strike it rich ripping off banks and trains in the Western United States until a special posse is sent to hunt them down. They collect their loot, escape to the remote South American plains and buy an 800 acre ranch, determined to go straight. For several years they do, but then they are found out. They sell the ranch and eventually (after Etta departs) the bank robbing begins again. Their fate isn’t as clear as the movies might tell you, but their Patagonian estate in Cholila, just a few hours from Bariloche still stands and is a fine place to explore. So is the bar just a half mile from the bandits’ old house, filled with fascinating paraphernalia and excellent beer and empanadas.

9. Hike Los Glacieres Parque Nationale

Most of epic Patagonia can be experienced from the Chilean side of the Andes. But this Argentinian gem is an exception. Los Glacieres is an immense ice field, one of the largest in the world, feeding hundreds of glaciers throughout the region. The geography has created two distinct areas for adventurers. To the north are the Viedma lake and glacier, along with Mount Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, popular for hikers and climbers. Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the most popular attractions in Argentina can be found to the south, its channel draining into Lago Argentino. Perito Moreno stubbornly resists the warming trend that weakens its glacial siblings; gains and losses are in equilibrium for the time being. Visitors can join tours, ride horseback, camp, fish, and more.

10. Bust a Bronco in Cerro Castillo

You’ll recognize Cerro Castillo by the towering sculpture of a rearing horse at the big roundabout on the town’s outskirts. Perhaps its proximity to Torres del Paine is the reason, but this town has its own western charm. It has a long history in the wool shearing trade that remains a big part of the economy. Mule trains once carried wool across the pampas to Puerto Madryn. The town is also famous for its annual bronco busting horse festivals, called “Jineteadas.” The Jineteadas are divided into several parts throughout the year, one each weekend per month from December to March, where the local gauchos, Patagonian cowboys, compete. Time your visit accordingly to catch one of these great events.

There aren’t many places to stay, but we enjoyed the modest Riverline Lodge. Cozy rooms and a fine local restaurant.

Video - John Fedele

Explore Further

Read about the extensive travels of my Vagabond-Adventure through Patagonia in the Vagabond Journal and our journey around the world traveling all seven continents, never by jet, at Vagabond-Adventure.com.

For more suggestions, including additional information about the services and experiences throughout Patagonia, visit our Patagonian Recommendations. Recommendations are updated frequently. Leave any questions in the comments below or contact the Vagabond-Adventure to learn more. Travelers looking for expert guidance will want to contract with a local expert. I am grateful for the services of Luciano Galvez Martinez who did a wonderful job helping us through this vast land. He grew up in Puerto Natales, speaks excellent English and immensely knowledgeable.

Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/exploring-patagonia-ten-great-ways-to-experience-patagonia-with-recommendations

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Spectacular Norway Fjords, Roads & Northern Landscapes

 Discover the breathtaking beauty of Norway through its majestic fjords, winding scenic roads, and dramatic northern landscapes. From towering mountains and crystal-clear waters to charming villages and endless Arctic vistas, every journey offers unforgettable views and extraordinary adventures. Experience nature at its most spectacular in one of the world's most stunning destinations.

See more:https://vagabond-adventure.com/vagabond-journal/bodo-to-narvik-bus-norway

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Cairo, The Flavor of Traffic

The beeping that emits from the automobiles of Cairo never ends. It makes the honking horns of Manhattan feel like a solitary walk through an English meadow.  In the Egyptian driving world beeping is not a sign of anger.

See more: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/cairo-to-alexandria-travel-story 

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Wandering Egypt: From Cairo Streets to Alexandrian Shores

 

Driving Through Modern Cairo, Egypt , Navigating Cairo by Car

If you’re ever brave enough to drive in Cairo, Egypt, you'll need to do it like schools of fish do — fluidly, dangerously close to other cars, trucks, vans, motorcycles, busses and Vespas; on the shoulder of the road when possible, making certain to ignore the signals and lines that have been laid out by the Egyptian government whenever possible. Failing to do this is to fail to be a proper Egyptian driver, and Youssef, our driver, was a proper Egyptian who could fish with the best of them.

He threaded his Toyota through the mayhem of Cairo’s streets, boulevards and highways, never stopping, because stopping is a cardinal sin. We circled immense roundabouts, skirted scores of every kind travel conveyance known to man or woman — scooters, tuc-tucs, leviathan tour buses, great clusters of microbuses the size of Volkswagen vans, every one of them jammed to the teeth with humans, so crammed that you couldn’t put a piece of paper between the people inside. Yet they seemed as comfortable and calm as a litter of sleeping puppies.

The beeping and honking that emits from the automobiles of Cairo never ends. It makes the horns of Manhattan feel like a solitary walk through an English meadow.  In the Egyptian driving world beeping is not a sign of anger. It is a language, a code. Each sound carries its own subtle meaning and all drivers understand the lingo. There are beeps that say, “I’m here!” Beeps that mean move along, or get out of my way, or careful, or stop or coming through. There are signals of frustration and every so often outright anger, but that is rare. Everything is somehow understood. I never witnessed an accident, although everything I saw on wheels was as battered and crumbled as a tin can in an alley. Apparently when there is an accident most people just move on unless serious damage has been done because most drivers don’t have insurance. All of this noise, I realized, serves the same purpose stop lights and stop signs and the lines on roads and boulevards serve, which was why they were all ignored.

Good thing, I thought, I was not driving. it would have been a merry game of bumper cars and there wouldn’t have been a driver safe from the chaos. No, it was best to leave the whole insane business in the hands of Youssef, and sure enough 30 minutes after we departed our hotel we broke out of the city unscathed onto broad ribbons of asphalt thereto to gape at the three Great Pyramids of Giza looking as if they had been dropped like giant blocks against the dense, sand-colored high-rise apartments that have erupted on the other side of the Nile. How two things created 4600 years apart could be so physically near to one other, but so separated by time dropped my jaw. We would visit them later, but for now, as the broad highway took us North toward the Mediterranean, they quickly disappeared in the rearview mirror.

Arriving in Cairo: Airports, Customs & First Impressions

We were on our way to Alexandria by car right now, but that hadn’t been our original plan. The day before, we arrived at Cairo International Airport. Cyn and I rarely travel by air, but we were forced to this time, from Athens to Cairo, because the ferry we thought we would take from Crete was shut down by the COVID epidemic. Navigating the customs process in Cairo was easier than expected — thanks to a man named Osama.

So in we came the way most outsiders do, through the crowded airport to gather our bags and bustle to customs.

The moment we entered the customs area, we found a man, or he found us, wearing a lanyard hung on his chest that assured us he worked for the Egyptian government. He was all charm and cheer with a thin head of hair, mustache and perfect teeth.

“Hello! Greetings! You have your visa?” He spoke in near perfect English.

We nodded.

“Wonderful, then we can rush you right through customs. Right this way.”

We thanked him, but I told him we first needed to get some cash to pay for a taxi to the hotel.

“Of course, of course,” says the man. “You need to get to a hotel. Let me help you with that, but here, here …” and in a heartbeat he had us at the counter exchanging money while he stood obediently nearby. Once we had safely stowed our cash, the man said, “Now we shall get you through customs.” He walked to the booth where custom agents stood. We saw him nod at one of them and got in a very short line.

“What is your name,“ asked Cyndy. The man beamed. “Osama, as in Ben Laden,” he grinned, and inclined his head, … “but no relation.”

While waiting in the customs line, he asked about our plans in Egypt. We mentioned we planned to visit Alexandria four days and then return to Cairo to board a ship up the Nile.

“Very nice. Very nice,” said Osama. Then he pulled out his phone and there was a rapid discussion in Arabic. I was trying to figure out what this man’s angle was. It’s not that I don’t trust most members of the human race, but when someone is this nice, and you don’t personally know them, there’s usually some quid pro quo in the cards. Yet he wasn’t asking for money or anything else for that matter.

Osama pocketed his phone and said with great pride. “I have arranged a car for you. It is a perfectly reasonable price.”

What was the price I asked?

“Only $20 American.”

That was high, I thought, but based on how far away we were and knowing we would be dealing with the kind of traffic 18 million people generates, it wasn’t worth debating.

“Thank you,” I said. “How do we find the car?”

Osama almost leapt with joy. “Here is my card.” He scribbled a name on it and handed it to me. “This is Youssef. He will be waiting for you outside and will take you to your hotel.” Then he added, “He will also drive you to Alexandria tomorrow, if you like. $80 American. The same cost as a train, but the ride will be so much better.”

I wasn’t sure of that but we hadn’t yet arranged train tickets and who knew what it would take to find the ticketing booths at the Ramses Rail Station. I had never been to Cairo, and suspected getting to the train depot and arranging ticketing there would probably be bedlam … on steroids. (I had already discovered you can’t effectively buy tickets in Egypt online). I said we’d look into it, but secretly thought it might be a different way to travel through Egypt. We could then take the train back from Alexandria and board the ship up the Nile in Cairo.

Soon we cleared customs and walked outside. Youssef appeared as if out of nowhere. It was a warm day and we were quickly surrounded. Youssef, however, a small man with buzz-cut hair, smoothly guided us through the crowd. He was a serious young man. None of the bluff and good humor of Osama. Once in the car, watching Youssef battle the traffic, it finally came to me how all of Osama’s good humor and personalized offers of help paid off for him. Being the clever man he was, he could never chance losing his government job by asking for cash directly. Instead he would have minions like Youssef available. He would shower us with kindness and help to build a relationship and then arrange to provide a driver, a driver who could take newbies like us all over the country, to every museum, every restaurant or city we wanted. Youssef would (I guessed) be supplied a car, a job with tips and maybe a cut of the car payment (but probably not). We would get our ride at a high, but not outrageous rate and might become longer term customers. Everybody wins, but mostly Osama because he would take the lion’s share of the payments. I couldn’t be absolutely sure this was the deal, but if it was, it was damned clever.

Once in the courtyard of the hotel, Youssef asked when he should pick us up for our drive to Alexandria in the morning. Eleven AM I suggested. “Yes. I will be there!”

Cairo to Alexandria by Car: What to Expect

Our road trip from Cairo to Alexandria began the next morning when Youssef pulled up on time, ready to battle the traffic once more. he was soon doing his best imitation of schooled fish. Traveling by car in Egypt offered a very different perspective than taking the train.

An immense bridge swept us east across the great river and then bent us north. Once beyond the pyramids we watched acres of high-rises, cranes and the apartment buildings pass us by, all in various states of construction.

After nearly an hour, we could still see the evidence of new development on the far edges of the city. Cairo seemed to be outgrowing itself, like an adolescent outgrows its clothes. (The population has grown 25% to 23M in just the last 10 years). Highways here were ten lanes in each direction and often clogged. Yet Cairo was minuscule compared to Mexico City or Tokyo.  How big could the world’s urban centers get, I wondered? How much growth could the world handle?  How much could any city? Over half the world’s 8 billion people now lived in cities, and the trend was accelerating.

Eventually, the thick parade of vehicles thinned as the Toyota sped us on toward Alexander’s ancient capital.  The number of buildings thinned out too. In their place we saw resorts, some of which had not succeeded, clusters of homes and beyond that broad orchards brimming with date and olive trees. The highway as four lanes wide and every so often a knot of people would shoot from one side of the freeway to the other, as if they had apparated out of the desert.  Where they came from or where they were going was unclear, but a microbus was usually involved. At another point the Toyota zip passed an 18 wheeler that read “Love Jesus.“ In a mostly Muslim country, didn’t expect that.

Meanwhile, Youssef, as bereft of English as we were of Arabic, stayed to himself. In fact he seemed unaware of our existence, treating us, whether we wanted it or not, to his favorite (and loudest) music — Arab Rock would be the best way to put it — while smoking one Egyptian cigarette after another.  Now and again he would assure us, “You like my driving? It’s good!!” Or sometimes, “Water?” Otherwise we lounged in the back seat and felt the wind from our open windows rush past like the days when I was a kid in the family car making our way to Virginia Beach.

Exploring Alexandria, Egypt: Food, Streets, and Local Life

By 2 pm we were weaving our way along Alexandria’s marvelous corniche, one of the most scenic promenades in Egypt, a great strand of road that skirts the Mediterranean, lined with cafes, buses, and the energetic rhythm of local Egyptian culture. It soon took us to the Steigenberger, Cecil Hotel. When I began to pay Youssef in Egyptian pounds, he was very insistent that he not only be paid for the cost of the trip Osama had arranged, but be tipped —Baksheesh in Arabic lingo. I hadn’t yet developed my theory that Osama probably owned the car Youssef was driving. I figured he owned the car, was being well paid and didn't require a tip. He did not see it that way.

“No, no!" He rubbed his thumb and index finger. "Tip. For airport, and here. I give you water. I drive good! It's a big long drive." It was my ignorance I suppose. But the way he demanded the money bothered me more than anything. His lack of English probably didn’t help. He pushed hard and was almost panicked. I suppose I would have been upset too if I had worked most of day, hadn’t made a dime and had to pay for the gas. Frankly I was exasperated, but we agreed on 1000 Egyptian pounds, about $20 and then Youssef, now smiling enthusiastically and shaking my hand, asked that we have our pictures taken together. “I will take you back to Cairo. Take you all around Alexandria!” I passed on the photo, and assured him that if we needed any help, we would be in touch. But we really didn’t want to be chauffeured around either city and the plan was to take the train back to Cairo. I never saw him again.

Alexandria Dining Adventure: Fish, Cash, and Cultural Confusion

My tete-a-tete with Youssef wasn't my only financial misadventure of the day. Once settled in our sprawling room at the Steigenberger Cecil Hotel, grand building on the Corniche seemingly plucked directly from the 1930s, food became a priority.

We dropped by the front desk where Cyndy asked if anyone could suggest a good local restaurant, a place where we could find the sort of meal one of them might like to eat.

“Down the corniche, to the left, perhaps a kilometer,” suggested a tall man with perfect hair. “Very good fish. Many of our colleagues and patrons go there.”

We stepped outside. The sunlight was golden with a warm, stiff breeze coming off the Mediterranean as we headed down the uneven stone sidewalks that lined the inner walk of the strand. Alexandria’s corniche rims the great sea that made so much of the ancient world possible; a ten mile promenade of cobbled walks bounded by beautifully crafted rock. It’s one of the world’s more arresting sites, and was a riot of activity.  Alexandria always is. Hundreds of microbuses wended their way along the great boulevard with 16 people jammed into every one of the bus’ four rows. Local folks called the vans micro-bassats (mee-krow bah sat), basset meaning local, and they are used by the millions throughout Egypt. And why not? It costs $.05-$.10 to use one, and you pay in Egyptian pounds to the driver when you get on. They dominated the road as we navigated the sidewalks, and climbed its big curbs, working our way through the city’s denizens. There were no tourist here, not one we saw; only Alexandrians – men at battered cafes, smoking strong cigarettes and sipping stronger coffee; street kids, mostly boys, maybe eight-years-old, wearing worn shoes and tattered jeans; women, young and old, clad almost always their hijabs, often arm-in-arm with another woman.

We weren’t finding many restaurants on our walk and as the sun dropped toward the sea and were beginning to wonder if we had somehow missed the place. We were about to turn around when we found it – Kadoura, it was called.

We walked inside to a wall of recently living fish buried in great piles of ice that showed off a variety of piscine delights. Four men faced us and quickly figured out we weren't local. They explained the routine. We had our pick of sea bass, prawn, crab, lobster, pretty much  anything that could be hauled out of the Mediterranean. All we had to do was choose the fish we wanted. We would be charged by the kilo, about 350 Egyptian pounds each or roughly $12 a pound. We ask the man to choose sea bass. He did and then gently directed us upstairs to a dining area filled with local families. At the other end was a large griddle and soon the fish was in front of us, grilled perfectly along with bowls of brown rice, fish soup, hummus, tahini, pickled vegetables, salad, and pita bread. It was all delicious, especially the sea bass, flash grilled, crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. We picked it clean and scooped up all the rest. The soup was made of crabmeat, milk and butter broth, with small clams and shrimp thrown in. We wolfed it all down as we looked out the big window and watched the constant passage of people below. Then it was time to pay, and that was my second economic mishap of the day.

Egypt Travel Tip: How I Almost Couldn't Pay for Dinner

When traveling I keep cash in my right pocket. In cities where the exchange rate means you have great wads of cash on hand because of the exchange rate, I keep smaller bills on the right and the larger ones in a second left lower pocket of my Eddie Bauer Ascent cargo pants which can be zipped shut. When I searched my right pocket, I realized that after paying Youssef, I was short of Egyptian pounds. Certainly not enough to pay for dinnner.

How am I going to pay for this meal, I thought? I told Cyn the situation and then walked to the steps below to find the very dark, handsome man, who had waited on us.

“I’m so sorry,” I explained. “Is there an ATM nearby.”

“Of course,” he says. “Down the street.” He pointed down the street.

Off I went into the twilight, weaving through the crowd. In a couple of blocks I found the ATM. Not far away a woman was sitting with her son, wailing about something she was unhappy about and giving the boy, about nine-years-old a pretty hard time. She hit him once and he shrunk back. I felt badly for him. I wanted to tell him, “Come on, you can hang out with us. But what would that accomplish and he’d think I was nuts anyhow. I couldn’t tell if the mother was simply having a bad day or might have suffered from some mental or emotional disability. It’s a big world, I thought, much of it is filled with pain, and I felt powerless to make it go away. I waited for the man at the ATM in front of me. He was there for a long time. Finally he turned and looked at me. The machine was out of order. I tried it any way. He was right.

Now what? I stood in the Alexandrian darkness, marinating in the beeps and crowds and the distant sound of the Mediterranean’s pounding surf. I began to walk back to the Kadoura wondering what I would tell the people who ran the place. I had no solution really. Leave something behind as collateral until I returned with payment, wash dishes, clean the toilets, haul fish (I had once done something like this in London when I was stuck without and needed a place to sleep)? And then a light bulb! I felt for my left lower left cargo pant pocket, the one with the zipper. Yes!! That was where I had stashed the larger bills we had exchange at the airport with Osama at my elbow, the back-up, “fat” cash I did not keep handy in my right pocket. How stupid! But what relief! I could pay the bill! And I wouldn’t have to haul fish heads out of the brine all night to pay off the meal.

I walked back to hotel infinitely lighter on my feet and when I strolled in I saw Cyndy sitting on the steps, wide eyed. My God, I had walked off to work things out with the waiter and left the restaurant without letting her know I was in search of cash! The look on her face clearly said, “And you have been where?”

“I’m so sorry, honey” I said, with the waiter probably wondering what the big deal was. He didn’t know we had only been in Egypt for 24 hours and might have been hauled away by the authorities or worse. Too many movies where the bad guys are Arab.

I paid the man and Cyn and I sauntered back to the Cecil. She forgave me and not long afterwards we settled into out beds. I fell asleep thinking of great fish swimming all around me in the Mediterranean Sea with one continually coming back to me and saying, “Where’s my money?”

FAQ

Q1: Can tourists drive from Cairo to Alexandria?

A: Yes, although driving in Egypt — especially in Cairo — can be overwhelming for foreign visitors. It’s often easier to arrange a private car service from Cairo to Alexandria, sometimes right at the airport with help from a government staffer. Drivers are usually skilled and courteous, though English is not guaranteed. The trip takes about 2.5 to 3 hours depending on traffic.

Q2: How much does it cost to use a car service?

A: Prices vary, but expect something comparable to Egypt’s train fares for this route — often higher than buses, but with far more convenience. We paid $80 for two passengers, which was fair for a private ride with door-to-door service. A tip is expected — 20–25% is generous and appropriate.

Q3: What is the Steigenberger Cecil hotel in Alexandria like?

A: Built in 1929, the Steigenberger Cecil Hotel still feels like a grand, romantic Alexandria hotel from that era. Overlooking Saad Zaghloul Square along the vibrant Corniche, it’s hosted everyone from Winston Churchill to Al Capone. Rooms lean toward black, white, and bronze decor. The staff is welcoming, and the breakfast buffet is legendary — eggs, fresh pastries, hummus, baba ghanoush, fruit, cereal, and more. Just don’t expect decaf coffee.

Q4: What can we expect from the Alexandria Corniche?

A: The Alexandria Corniche is a sweeping waterfront promenade bounded by the Mediterranean Sea on one side and city parks and buildings on the other. It’s loud, energetic, and distinctly local — you won’t find many tourists here, or many restaurants though there is no shortage of street food. What you will find are unbeatable views of the sea and skyline, especially near the distant Citadel of Qaitbay, built where the Lighthouse of Alexandria once stood.

Driving from Cairo to Alexandria gave us a firsthand look at Egypt’s chaotic charm and Mediterranean beauty. Whether you're traveling by car, train, or microbus, both cities are rich with culture, history, and unexpected surprises.

This is Dispatch XXXVIII in a series about a Vagabond’s Adventures - journalist and National Geographic Explorer Chip Walter and his wife Cyndy’s effort to capture their experience exploring all seven continents, all seven seas and 100+ countries, never traveling by jet.

If you’ve enjoyed this dispatch, please take a look at Chip’s other adventures (and misadventures) … and don’t forget to check the Vagabond Journal and our Travel Recommendations to help you plan YOUR next adventure.

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Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/cairo-to-alexandria-travel-story

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