The 10 Greatest Travel-Adventure Books Ever

 

10. Into Thin Air - By John Krakauer

Despite being a true story about a misbegotten group of tourists attempting to climb the summit of Mt. Everest, John Krakauer’s book often leaves even fine novels in the literary dust. The story he tells rises, like the great peak itself, slowly, and then builds to a remarkable climax. Each of the characters is brought alive by Krakauer’s careful and detailed descriptions as they make their way upward; their backstories carefully tossed like seeds throughout the book so that when the climax (or multiple climaxes) arrive, the effect is horrifying, sad, exhilarating and satisfying all at the same time. The research Krakauer did to write the book places him in the pantheon of great narrative non-fiction writers like Tom Wolfe and Truman Capote. If you haven’t bought it, do so now and enjoy every minute. On Barnes & Noble.

9. Seven Pillars of Wisdom - By T. E. Lawrence

In this book T.E. Lawrence, the inspiration for the epic David Lean film Lawrence of Arabia, relates his own rise among the Arab tribes to help overthrow Ottoman rule during World War I. It’s an astounding story and whatever you may say of the outcome, it stands as one of the most remarkable military and human tales of the 20th century. Lawrence describes his role in what he called “a procession of  Arab freedom from Mecca to Damascus;” a series of battles that changed the face of the Middle East and helped meld tribes into the nation states we know as the Middle East. The experience tried his own mental and emotional mettle as he endured torture, thirst, horror and personal loss as well as military success. His writing, which can occasionally be overly dramatic, is also moving and eloquent. “For years we lived anyhow with one another in the naked desert,” he writes, “under the indifferent heaven. By day the hot sun fermented us; and we were dizzied by the beating wind. At night we were stained by dew, and shamed into pettiness by the innumerable silences of the stars.” The story does not digress; it is detailed, realistic and unflinching, and it pins you to each page like a spell because the cultures, climate, locations, politics, dangers and remarkable characters are unlike anything the world ever seen. On Amazon.

8. South - By Sir Ernest Shackleton

In 1914, veteran adventurer Ernest Henry Shackleton set sail to anchor his ship Endurance on the ice of Antarctica and then walk the length of the new and unknown continent, a feat that had never been accomplished or even attempted before. He dreamed that fame and fortune would follow. He was right, it did, but not for the reasons he thought. He failed at his goal, but then went on to lead one of the most remarkable rescues in the history of human adventure. Shackleton’s team was undone before they began when ice floes destroyed the Endurance and forced them to abandon it. Though they unloaded provisions from the ship, they were without shelter, limited food and nowhere near any sort of help. For  nearly 17 months they trudged across ice floes, hauling three lifeboats with them until in April 1916, Shackleton decided to plunge the lifeboats into the sea and sail for some spit of land. Five days later they found Elephant Island, a place never inhabited by humans. It was the first time the 28 men had stood on solid ground in 497 days. But Elephant Island was hardly a safe haven. On April 24th, Shackleton set out with five other crew members into the open sea with one of his 20 foot boats. The other two he left with the remaining crew. They promptly flipped them over into makeshift cabins where the 22 men planned to live until rescued.  For 800 miles Shackleton’s little lifeboat fought heavy seas, frigid cold and Force-9 winds. Yet, somehow, after 18 days at sea, Shackleton and their skiff made it to the island of South Georgia. But they had arrived on the opposite side of help. So with two other crew members, Shackleton spent the next two days crossing the island’s treacherous landscape until at last he found a whaling station. From there, after several failed attempts, he managed to get back to Elephant Island on a tugboat to rescue the remaining 22 men. When he arrived August 30, 1916, in the dead of the astral winter, every one of them was still alive.  This story doesn’t carry the elegance and force of a masterful writer like Saint-Exupery or Ted Simon or John Steinbeck, but it doesn’t have to because the story itself is so remarkable. Drama is on nearly every page, and you can’t help but want to know, how will they make it! And the photos that accompany the book are remarkably stark and beautiful. (You can buy an e-book version of this book with original maps, pictures and drawings for $2.99 at our Vagabond Adventure store.

7. The Great Railway Bazaar - by Paul Theroux

The 1970s were a time when baby boomers were growing into adulthood and some of them did not want to spend their days in faceless factories or corporate offices. That included Paul Theroux who decided to travel from London across Europe, through the sub-continent, down Southeast Asia, then circle back to London by way of Japan and and the length of Russia, all by train. He wrote The Great Railway Bazaar in 1975  when travel books had a dirty name, and along with Bruce Chatwin and Ted Simon brought back the thrill of new cultures and dangerous deeds like Patrick Leigh Fermor and Richard Halliburton did when they mastered the form in the 1930’s and 40s. Theroux is a writer with guts and a remarkable eye for the significant detail. The pages of this book bring the story alive with beauty and insight and absolute honesty. He never shies from the truth as he sees it, which can be brutal, funny, surprising and moving, the very elements you want to see in any story. On Amazon.

6. Alive: The Story of the Andes Survivors - By Piers Paul Read

British writer Piers Paul Read’s Alive is one of the most riveting escape and rescue stories yet written. In some ways it surpasses Ernest Shakleton’s South. In 1972 a jet with 45  members of an Uruguayan Rugby team and their families and friends crashed in the Andes mountains. Sixteen people, traumatized and injured, somehow survived, but their prospects for living very much longer were long. They faced temperatures well below zero at 11,000 feet with little food. The two and a half months the group lived together created a crucible out which extraordinary decisions were made. They survived storms, frigid cold, an avalanche, and the anguish of losing so many loved ones by creating a miniature social system that was an object lesson in human in courage, determination and the finest in human behavior. Daily duties were divided, and food was rationed, including the grisly decision to eat the bodies of the crash victims, often members of their own families. There were squabbles and deep concerns over the eating of the victims of the crash, and not everyone pulled their weight, but the system worked. In the end, the group agreed to increase rations for two leaders, Roberto Canessa and Nando Parrado, so they could attempt to hike out of the mountains and save the group. For two weeks, carrying make shift sleeping bags and gear created by the survivors, they scaled a 15,000 foot mountain peak and hiked for ten days and 38 miles to the valleys of Chile where exhausted they finally found help. Read tracked down the survivors when the world heard their story and interviewed all 16 in immense detail. He toyed with fictionalizing some parts of the book (he was a novelist, former writer for the BBC and the Sunday Times), but decided that simply telling the story as clearly as possible was enough. He was right. If you aren’t utterly smitten but this book, I’ll buy you dinner. On Barnes & Noble.

5. In Patagonia — By Bruce Chatwin

For shear beauty of phrase and description, Bruce Chatwin’s book is difficult to top. But even better is his remarkable story telling ability. Once you begin to read In Patagonia, the book becomes your companion. And even when you put the book down, his words reverberate.  With the publication of this book in 1977, Chatwin helped revive travel writing when publishers had lost interest in the art. Chatwin himself said he didn’t see the book as a travelogue. Instead he meant it as a series of stories he wanted to tell as he worked his way by foot and bus and thumb across some of the wildest territory on earth. And he succeeds somehow weaving in tales like tracking the house down where Butch Cassidy lived, to mesmerizing fables about unicorns and Bigfoot like creatures shared by the people he meets. As he travels, you have  the sense of movement and travel, but you would be hard pressed to know what route he took precisely though the vast land. It doesn’t matter, though because in so many ways the book is a journey, but one of the mind. You’re enthralled with geology and history and myth, and above all the remarkable people he stumbles into. In this way, the book is utterly unique and unfailingly engaging. On Barnes & Noble.

4. Travels with Charley: In Search of America  - By John Steinbeck

Not long after Steinbeck wrote My Travels With Charlie (1962), he was awarded the Nobel Prize for his remarkable and considerable body of work (The Grapes of Wrath and  Of Mice and Men to name just two of his masterworks). My Travels reminds you why. The book was Steinbeck’s personal effort to reconnect and understand America by circling the nation during the 1960s in a camper of his own design with his dog Charlie. On their journey he reveals bits of nation, its people, its varied cultures and himself, one simple story at a time to create a timeless mosaic. It’s not a travel adventure in the mold of South or The Worst Journey In the World, but its is a quietly powerful adventure nevertheless, steady, engaging, always insightful in the Steinbeck’s beautiful and direct language, and his unerring ability to capture dialogue.  Don’t think that the time difference makes the story stale. As with all of Steinbeck’s work, the writing is direct, but deep. Especially in this book you feel as though you are sitting down with a close friend as he reflects with disarming humor and intelligence all that he sees and experiences with the wry and authentic eye of a true genius. On Barnes & Noble.

3. Wind, Sand and Stars - by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

Wind, Sand and Stars - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s most famous book is his children’s classic, The Little Prince, but his most beautiful and exciting book is The Wind, Sand and the Stars, tales of his days as an aviator for Aeropostale (later Air France) in the 1920s and 30s. It is simply one of the most beautiful books ever written, unless you don’t care for enthralling human insight, epic vision or love of the written word put to the pen of a master story-teller. Saint-Exupery was among a group of early aviators who faced danger the way knights of old slayed dragons. A flier first and a writer later, he skated through the skies on single-wing, sing-propeller craft at a time when by-the-seat-of-your-pants was the primary way to get to and from exotic locations like Casablanca, Tangier,  Cairo, Dakar, Argentina, Paraguay and Chile. The book is rich with daredevil adventures, near death experiences, stark beauty and the wonder of flight when flight was still a miracle. A key theme is that while flying these early contraptions annihilated time and distance unlike anything else before. It also opened the world to unknown cultures and people, and forced an appreciation for nature’s stunning and awful power.  Each chapter is broad and varied, but Saint-Exupéry fuses them with common themes of courage, honor, empathy and high purpose.  They read almost like fables, but stunningly rich fables, because in the end it is Saint-Exupery’s extraordinary mind and heart and command of language that raise the book far above mere autobiography or memoir. Yet, he is always humble and modest. His love of the common man is in every word. To learn more, read my article “A Prisoner of the Sands” about Saint-Exupery’s near death experience when his airplane crashed in the Sahara Desert. On Amazon.

2. The Worst Journey In the World - By Apsley Cherry—Garrard

It’s an unlikely title that lead National Geographic  to choose  Worst Journey as the greatest adventure book ever written, but it is a classic, and absolutely true to its title. In 1911 Robert Falcon Scott, already a redoubtable British explorer, brought 11 men with him to Antarctica to become the first humans to reach the South Pole.  Scott would be racing another expedition, Norwegian Roald Amundsen’s competing party who were just as determined to succeed. Scott lost the race to Amundsen, but the story of his heroic effort lives on in this book written by one of the survivors, 23-year-old Apsley Cherry-Garrard. At least as astounding as the race to the pole, is Cherry-Garrard’s telling of another hair-raising expedition that began before the polar run with Scott. Cherry-Garrard and two others man-hauled two sledges into the teeth of Austral winter to locate and return the unhatched eggs of emperor penguins.  Nearly every day for weeks they fought temperatures 50 degrees below zero and winds of 100 mph. At one point winds whipped their tent away. Somehow, through all of this they, survived. Both of these stories, and Cherry-Garrard’s frank and powerful first person descriptions of what he and the members underwent, make for riveting reading that still stands up despite being exactly 100 years old. Included are unique maps and the stunning drawings and sketches Edward Wilson created to reveal a frozen world like nothing the human race had seen. Maps and photos of the team, even as they neared death, are also included. That alone makes the book worth reading. For me, this is truly one of the world’s most memorable adventure stories. It brought both the fear and exaltation of hazard and courage directly into my hands and I found it mesmerizing. I think you will too. (For more information read my article describing the remarkable journey in the dead of the Antarctic winter. An e-book version of this book with updated preface and original maps, pictures and drawings is also available for $2.99 at our Vagabond Adventure store.

1. Jupiter’s Travels - By Ted Simon

The last I heard Ted Simon is still alive at 90 and still riding his motorcycle. But in 1973 when he convinced the Sunday Times to back his idea of traveling the world on a motorcycle, he didn’t even have a motorcycle license. (After failing the test once, he did manage to pass shortly before departing.) The experience took Simon 64,000 miles, across 45 countries and through every adventure imaginable from being thrown into a Brazilian prison for ten days, to wrecking his motorcycle in Africa, to moments of ecstasy in Peru. He even fell in love in a California commune. Simon’s special talent (he has so many) is not simply his ability to describe what he sees, but to reflect on his experiences in profound, moving and often hilarious ways. His ability to look inside his own mind and then relate those thoughts and feelings to his readers is truly remarkable and often as powerful as any insight you might hear from the novels of Tolstoy or James Joyce. Sometimes his descriptions, internal or external, are so beautiful, that I found myself putting the book down not to stop reading, but to savor the phrases like an excellent wine.  Never egotistical, his unique and eloquent insights teach us about ourselves as much as about him and the people he meets. That he managed all of this on a single motorcycle in the span of four years is both remarkable and courageous, and you feel it on every page. The book never flags. On Amazon

Honorary Mention (Available by linking below.)

Desert Queen: The Extraordinary Life of Gertrude Bell: Adventurer, Adviser to Kings, Ally of Lawrence of Arabia by Janet Wallach

Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen

The Lost City of the Monkey God by Douglas Preston

The Perfect Storm by Sebastian Junger

Additional books on my list of great adventures, not yet read …

The Adventures of Marco Polo Vol. 1 & Vol. 2 by Marco Polo (Available Free at The Gutenberg Project)

The Journals of Lewis and Clark by Meriweather Lewis (Available Free at The Gutenberg Project)

The Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons by John Wesley Powell (Available Free at The Gutenberg Project)

The History of Africa by Leo Africanus - (Available online free, click link.)

Through the Dark Continent by Henry M. Stanley.

 

Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/the-10-greatest-adventure-and-travel-books-ever

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Cruising Through Lemaire Channel Antarctica on Ocean Diamond

 We clustered on the ship's bow to watch the Ocean Diamond thread its way through the thickening maze of icebergs. There were so many that the Captain had been up most of the night making sure we didn't have a Titanic moment. Now we were stopped by chunks of ice the size of small mountains, and plenty of smaller ones that might offend the ship's hull.

To read more about this Antarctic Expedition, please visit: https://vagabond-adventure.com/vagabond-journal/category/Antarctica

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The Magic of Morocco: My Ha-Ma-Ma-Maaamm Experience

 

I’m a shy man. I could spend days happily alone, in a monk-like stupor. It’s very likely one of the reasons I’m a writer rather than an actor or circus performer. If I had to be either Siegfried or Roy I’d probably fail at both. No, for me a good day is hunkering down with my keyboard to tap out words, preferably in an order that makes some sense to others. Occasionally I succeed. But I also have this taste for novelty and travel because, after all, arent novelty and new places two peas in a pod? Now and then, though, my curiosity leads to more than I bargained for …  like my first Hammam.

A Brief History of Hammams

Hammams are a unique feature in the muslim world. They go back to its very earliest days. The first of them emerged in the palaces and desert castles of Damascus in the late 600s (AD) thanks to Mu’awiya, a cleric who founded the Umayyad Caliphate in Syria. If you look hard, you can still find ancient Hammam ruins in places like Qusayr 'Amra and Hammam al-Sarah. It didn’t take long for Mu’awiya’s idea to catch on. Hammams soon became a key part of Muslim culture from Mesopotamia and India clear across the Middle East and North Africa to Morocco and into Europe and Iberian Andalusia.

Youssef was one of the guides who helped us navigate Morocco and he says all sorts of variations of Hammams have evolved, but the basic idea, whether you are in Turkey or southern Spain, goes more or less like this: first you undress and spend some time in a cooling area. After that comes a warming area with steam and then finally a hotter section before being thoroughly scrubbed with a kessa glove — a stiff mitten made of tree fiber specifically designed to thoroughly exfoliate your skin. Next up, a special mud (usually loaded with magnesium and other minerals) is applied before you are drenched again with warm water. As a bonus you can also enjoy a kind of Swedish style massage and relax with some hot mint tea (if you happen to be in Morocco). 

The first Hammams emerged from Greek and Roman baths, or thermae, which prospered during the heyday of both of those empires. Cyndy and I visited a bath in Volubilis, Morocco, a Roman city built when Christ was growing up. The baths weren’t working very well when we saw them, but apparently they were when Isidris I, the founder of Moroccan Islam, later converted it to a Hammam in the 8th century around the time he set up his first capital city there.

Why, you may wonder, all of these ablutions? For practicing Muslims, a Hammam serves both religious and civic purposes. It provides for the  Islamic cleansing rituals (wadu and ghusi) required each week, while ensuring everyone gets a serious personal scrubbing. (This was more of an issue in ancient times than nowadays.)  And it’s flat out relaxing.

I first came across Hammams when Cyndy and I were exploring Istanbul a few years back. But we were pressed for time on that trip and I failed to try one out. So when Rayna, a tall dark young woman who worked at Riad Kalaa where we were bedded down in Rabat, Morocco said they had a Hammam right there on the premises, I wanted to know more.

“Let me show you,” she said.

Descent into the Hammam

I followed her through a narrow archway and down steep stone steps into the riad’s bowels. We were way down there. Inside I found three dark rooms, one with a tub (too small for a human), the other two with large tables — one stone and one wooden. The whole scene looked like a great place to hold the Spanish Inquisition. The rooms were pristine, but I wondered if Riad Kalaa had always been a Hammam. It was built in the 1600s. Maybe it used to serve as a medieval dungeon. Rayna chuckled and said she didn’t know, but explained that the Hammam ritual was routine for Moroccan muslims. Then she shot me a look as if to say, “Really, you’re gonna like it.” I checked for chains and manacles anyway.

Despite my imaginary misgivings, I could tell the place was the real thing, even if I didn’t know what kind of real thing. But then, you know … novelty. I asked Rayna if she could arrange an appointment for later that day — both the Hammam and a full massage. Why not. We had covered a lot of ground. The old body was feeling the wear and tear.

“Yes, of course,” said Rayna. “I’ll set it up for 4 pm.”

Back in our room I asked Cyn if she wanted in.

“Ah … no,” she said with military finality.

I was wary of the rituals of Hammam because they seemed fairly elaborate. And I was clueless about how to behave. It fell into that comfortable/uncomfortable space in the mind where both “interesting” and abject fear reside, like bungee jumping or free climbing. And the whole process appeared pretty damned intimate. What sort of person would be drenching me? A large Arab from some bad movie involving Bruce Willis? A saucy Mata Hari? Would I be alone or surrounded by other people? How would I be clothed? How long would be Hammaming? Stop it, I said. You’re being a wimp! Shut up and enjoy the ride! Millions upon millions of people have partaken in these rites for 1400 years, and survived. Pretty sure you can too.

A set of 10 brick stairs descend around a bend into a tile corridor. The walls are reflective bronze.

The second descent into the Hammam. (Photo - Chip Walter)

Off With Your Clothes

At 4 pm I headed down, down into the dungeon’s ancient steps, the slap of my sandals echoing against the sandstone rock. When i walked into the dressing room  (or undressing room as it turned out), my experiment immediately began to get interesting. Standing before me was a buxom middle aged woman with short, tightly curled black hair. Her face was strong and handsome. She smiled and showed me a row of gleaming white teeth, but said nothing. She wore a kind of black bathing suit and longish shorts. I smiled and gave her a hearty hello which I immediately realized was entirely out of place. Her name, I learned later, was Najeera. She might have been Libyan or Moroccan, Sicilian, Italian or Andalusian; maybe some combination of all of them. I only knew that in those dark eyes lay a kind of smoldering, no-nonsense gypsy look.

She quickly disappeared into the room next door and I heard a faucet being turned on. She moved silently and with commanding speed, grace and calm while I stood in my pants, t-shirt and sandals looking thoroughly like a white man from the USA entirely out of his element. Steam soon emanated from the nearby room. After a minute or so she returned and seemed surprised and a little annoyed to find me still standing unmoved. With a quick sweep of her hand she motioned for me to take off my clothes and then turned back to her duties.

Really? Weren’t we in a Muslim country? Wasn’t scanty clothing usually looked down upon in these parts? Especially when it involved people of the opposite sex? Was I really to entirely disrobe in front of this woman? I swiveled my head, looking for cover because surely there was some other scrap of clothing I was to wear, a loin clothe maybe? Behind me I found two robes. While Najeera had her back to me, I slipped off my pants and shirt and threw on the robe.  She returned and looked at me again and rolled her gypsy eyes. What was this guy’s problem? She stood, silent for a moment, then held her hands and arms out with palms flat against one another, almost prayer-like, before suddenly whipping them open like a door, clearly telling me to get the robe off!

“Everything?” I gulped.

A vigorous nod, and then a gesture to enter the steaming room.

Chip sans shirt takes a selfie in the mirror

Everything??!The appalling image that Najeera faced once she commanded I disrobe. Took this picture later to illustrate, more or less, what she saw … except in this case I’m wearing pants.

I dropped the robe, now nekked as Jesus on Christmas morn, and shuffled into the room. It was me and Najeera, and not another soul.

I was to lay down on my stomach. Thank, God, I thought. I obediently scrambled onto one of the marble slabs which had been topped with a neoprene mat, and waited. Water and steam had been running into the little tub I had seen on my first visit and was rising and filling the room. I lay, awaiting what? Then, gently Najeera began to douse me with a large ladle filled with hot water. It was just the perfect temperature and I felt suddenly calm.

“Ca Va?” She asked to check if the water was too hot. Her first words.

“Ca va.” I croaked.

Now she stroked my body with a soft cloth, sweeping the water across my back and legs and everything in between. I was getting a very thorough and intimate cleansing. This went on for several minutes before my boss directed me to roll over.

What?!

Here in a blink we went all my old Catholic upbringing out the window, all remnants of the Victorian Age not to mention American proprieties about lying naked in front of total stranger. What would the nuns at St. Germaine’s think? How would I control my you know … well, you know … the part of me that often seems to have no control?

Maintaining Control

I rolled onto my back thinking deeply about the geometry problems that plagued me in high school while Najeera performed the same ablutions on my front as she had on my backside. Gentle hands, gallons of hot water, careful attention to each detail. The steam roiled and the water, which had long ago spilled out of the nearby tub, now ran everywhere on the floor. I closed my eyes and shifted my thoughts to chess gambits.

This went on for several more minutes until Najeera asked me to roll back onto my stomach and now with her kessa, undertook to separate every inch of my epidermis from the rest of me. Truthfully, this process isn’t as painful as it sounds. You aren’t flayed, precisely. It only assures that the days of whatever dead skin happen to be clinging to your epidermis are now and forever thoroughly numbered, which is, of course, the idea behind Islamic purity of mind and body. I was feeling simultaneously relaxed and invigorated.

I could hear Najeera breathing hard in the steam as she worked to scrub my neck and back, my bottom, thighs, calves, feet and toes, the whole magilla. Next I was flipped onto my back again. By this time I had moved onto exploring prime numbers, and then I gave up. Go with it, I thought. Let John Thomas have his way. Enjoy the moment, the steam, the soothing douses of warm water, the invigorating scrubs. Najeera has probably seen more naked men and their nether regions than your average nurse in her lifetime, and could care less. She was simply doing her job. Yes, there was something erotic about this, and parts of my body were more than … touched, but this was not about sex. It was part of a long and ancient ritual that was different from anything I had ever experienced before. So like the Brooklyn cabbie says, “Fugettabaht it!”

The scrubbing took a good 15 minutes assuming I didn’t fall asleep. I may have, I was enjoying it that much. I gave my self over entirely to Najeera.  My skin felt alive, renewed, fresh. When I was done, my epidermis would have sung a Meghan Trainor song if it could have. Skin is the body’s largest organ and deserves more tender loving care than at least I’ve given it in my life. Waking it up, cleansing it, releasing the oils and detritus we and the world slap on it could not possibly be anything but a gift. Scrub, scrub. Every now and again I found myself mumbling a grateful, “Trés bien“ which did nothing like justice to the pleasure I was experiencing.

Scraped clean, Najeera rinsed me with more warm water. After that she lathered me top to bottom with a bar of black soap. Then more ladling before commanding me to sit up cross legged to drench me again. Imagine that image. Or maybe not. I flashed back to the days when I was five and my mother would put me in the basement washing tub because after a summer’s day of exploring the woods, ponds and creeks, I was filthy. “Come here, you little raggamuffin,” she would say, lifting me into the tub. Here I was again, a raggamuffin in a Moroccan Hammam 40 feet below ground with a dark haired gypsy. That, I thought, is what travel is all about, the broadening of personal experience in the most unexpected and exuberant ways.

Now came a final bathing: the mineral rich mud which Najeera slathered on me forehead to toes. This did not dry in the moist heat of the room, but I could feel my skin absorbing it before I was ladled with more of the warm and relaxing water.  I was now cleaner than I think I may have ever been in my life.

But she wasn’t done yet.

Even though I was feeling more like a boiled pasta noodle than a human being, Najeera managed to sit me up, wrap me in a towel and march me 10 feet to the wooden massage table around the corner. Off came the towel with a flourish and I was laid face down for a fine rubbing with oils unknown to me. Again, Najeera worked with thoroughness and care, front and back. I’m sure I dozed even as I tried to enjoy the relaxing touch of every muscle. This woman had the hands of a stevedore yet massaged me with a strength and gentility that unknotted every muscle (except one) for a good hour. I could hear her breathing hard and sometimes watched her wiped the sweat from her dark brow, as she kneaded me like a bundle of bread dough. She may have had the hands of a longshoreman, but I had begun to realize she also had a sweetness that belied her nun-like commands.

In time we were done. I opened my eyes. Najeera flashed her white teeth. I could only muster another lethargic, “Tres bien. Merci beaucoup! Merci! Merci!” And a stupid grin.

I rose and it was work to pull on my clothes.  Najeera simply stood nonchalantly by. She could care less.

I asked her name. She told me.

I gave her mine. She daintily held out her strong right hand. “Enchanté,” she said.

“Enchante,” I replied, and reflexively closed my hands in a prayer, bowed and sputtered out another merci. Finally she smiled and daintily tilted her head.

When I indicated payment, she waved a finger and said, almost crossly. “No. Upstairs.” Meaning I should pay at the office. We will not taint this ancient ritual with something as lowly as money. Once again, a kid being reprimanded by the nuns at St. Germaine’s.

I thanked her one last time and ascended the steep steps. I felt like a new man. No wonder, I thought, that the people of Morocco seem so open and warm. How could they not be if they do this every week.

This is Dispatch XXXVI in a series about a Vagabond’s Adventures - journalist and National Geographic Explorer Chip Walter and his wife Cyndy’s effort to capture their experience exploring all seven continents, all seven seas and 100+ countries, never traveling by jet.

If you’ve enjoyed this dispatch, please take a look at Chip’s other adventures (and misadventures) … and don’t forget to check the Vagabond Journal  and our Travel Recommendations to help you plan YOUR next adventure.

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Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/visiting-a-moroccan-hammam-in-rabat

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A Perfect Three Week Patagonian Itinerary

A Complete Guide

Overview

Patagonia covers more than 1,000,000 square kilometers. That’s larger than Ontario, larger than Egypt, and twice as large as Spain or California.  So getting around can require some planning.

There are plenty of ways to go. Author and novelist Bruce Chatwin famously spent six months hiking and thumbing his way southbound from Lima, Peru. The British explorer and writer Lady Florence Dixiesrated in Ushuaia (Before it was known as Ushuaia) and headed northeast.  I spent four weeks traveling from Puerto Montt to Ushuaia by way of Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn. If you’re planing to explore, you probably need a good three weeks to really do the trip justice, and buy some time to relax.

If you’re arriving from outside South America, the most common entry to the continent into Ushuaia by air via Buenos Aires. That’s the southern route. Arrival in Santiago, Chile is also a good option. From there you come into Patagonia from the North by way of Puerto Montt or San Carlos de Barioloche, regarded as the gateway to Patagonia.

Once in Puerto Montt, you can journey by sea (including the Navimag ferry — recommended) or by land (car or bus). Train service in Chilean Patagonia is essentially non-existent. The options are not much better in Argentinian Patagonia, where only the Tren Patagónico operates, serving a small region in the north from Viedma to Bariloche - a route with hours long views of endless steppes. Fans of Paul Theroux will recognize this route in The Old Patagonian Express.  In Argentina, long distance commuter service arrives courtesy of the many buses which are generally fast and affordable. We recommend Andes Mar in Chile or check Busbud.com for a selection in both countries.

The best option might be a car rental, except car rental agencies in Chile and Argentina don’t play nice and charge high fees for crossing the two countries. Drop off fees are prohibitive or non-existent. Just do your homework. If you drive within either of the two countries, the highway systems are extensive and generally well maintained, except in rural areas. Adventurers should select an unlimited mileage plan and make sure you have contact info in case a car breaks down. Mine came to a dead stop outside of Torres del Paine when we found the rattling from the ruts had decoupled our battery cable. (Details of that misadventure here.)

A Patagonian Itinerary

There are many entry points to Patagonia. Those who want to begin in the heart of Tierra del Fuego start in Ushuaia or Punta Arenas. Puerto Montt is also popular. For this adventure, we begin in Santiago, Chile and then head to Puerto Montt.

Day 0. Arrive in South America via Santiago.

Day 1 - 2. Arrive in Puerto Montt. Fly to Puerto Montt from Santiago. Enjoy a day in Puerto Montt.

Days 3 - 6. Ride the Navimag to Puerto Natales. The ferry carries you through hundreds of miles of the most remote territory in the world, offering remarkable views of Patagonia’s stunning archipelagos.

Day 7. Enjoy a day in Puerto Natales. Natales still has a frontier feel, but constantly upgrading as the tourist industry prospers. Take a hike above the Laguna Sofia Patagon and visit the Milodon cave.

Day 8. Drive to Cerro Castillo. Cerro Castillo mostly operates as a border crossing for Argentina and a gateway to Torres del Paine, but if your timing is right, you can catch one of the great horse festivals, called “Jineteadas,” presented one weekend per month through the summer. Flexible itineraries might consider a diversion across the border to see Glaciar Perito Moreno in Los Glaciares National Park. Budget 2-3 extra days.

Day 9 - 11. Visit Torres del Paine. Depending on how much time you have and how inspired you are, Torres can be a couple days or a couple weeks, or months! There are opportunities for hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, and more.

Days 12 - 13. Visit Punta Arenas, the capital of Chile’s Magallanes region and the most populous city in Southern Chile. You can get there by bus or car within a couple of hours. Take a walk through the city and visit the Cementerio Municipal, Nao Victoria Museo, and Parque del Estrecho de Magallanes. There is also a massive casino.

Days 14 - 18. Explore Tierra del Fuego on Australis Cruise. Sail through the channels beginning in Punta Arenas among the islands on the way to Cape Horn, the southernmost land not in Antarctica. Enjoy hiking, incredible glaciers, and waterfalls that thunder into the sea. This is the land that made names like Magellan, Fitzroy and Darwin famous.

Days 19 - 20. Explore Ushuaia. The Australis expedition stops in Ushuaia, the final stop on this adventure. The southernmost city in the world is a fine place to reflect on an epic three week adventure. Plan some time for Tierra del Fuego National Park and take the End of the World train. Tickets available in the center of town.

Day 21. Fly to Santiago.  Depart South America with memories of a lifetime.

Bonus. Travelers who can’t get enough and want to sneak in a couple of extra days might think about exploring San Carlos de Bariloche and the surrounding areas on their way out. Bariloche is the main tourist region of Argentinian Patagonia. Catch a flight from Ushuaia to enjoy the mountains, rivers, and the endless hikes. Take a side trip by car to Butch Cassidy’s ranch in Cholila. Read how I found the famous outlaw’s ranch here.

Itinerary Map

The recommended itinerary, by day and location. Transit route between locations is approximate. Day counts are estimated. Stay flexible to accommodate unexpected events.

Read more about great locations, travel planning and expeditions throughout Patagonia in our article in 10 Great Ways to Experience Patagonia.

Travel Planning and Logistics

When to Travel

In Southern Patagonia, the temperatures can reach as high as a crisp 45°F in the summer. Although, there is a winter culture to enjoy, most visitors prefer the summer months. The tourist season begins in the late October spring and extends through the summer, ending around March. You can avoid what crowds there are by traveling “on the shoulder” during spring or fall, but the weather will be less predictable.

Choosing a Guide or Travel Service

Adept travelers can do well managing by themselves, but guide can really help, especially if you don’t speak much Spanish. They can also help arrange visits to remote locations, or hiking/outdoor excursions, kayaking, horseback riding etc. There are not many guides. I worked with Luciano Galvez Martinez.  He is local, extremely knowledgeable, speaks multiple languages fluently and in my experience absolutely honest.

Expenses

Thanks to its remote location and its popularity as a destination, Patagonia can be more expensive than most other places in South America, but that doesn’t necessarily mean costs are outrageous. Lodging and food come in at about the same cost as you would find in the United States. Budget carefully for transportation. The Australis (Ventus) voyage is not cheap, but it is exceptional. Navimag costs about the same as a hotel with food for four nights would cost. That’s quite reasonable considering the experience you get in return. Rental vehicles are another option for travel through this part of the region, but schedule ahead because cars can be hard to find and, therefore, expensive. The cost for excursions will vary depending on visitor preferences. Fortunately, scenery is free. We recommend these, or working with Luciano.

Gratuities? In Patagonia, 10% will suffice for a job well done.

Communicating

Non-spanish speakers might have some trouble in rural and out of the way areas, but should have little trouble managing in the bigger cities, popular tourist areas or the various cruises where english is widely spoken. Still, it wouldn’t hurt to buff up on your basic exchanges for transactions and transportation.

Telecommunications

Cell service is sometimes very slow or nonexistent. Don’t expect service in the remote areas. Internet services will be acceptable, but generally slower than the United States, in the good hotels.

The Patagonian Winds

With hardly any land mass in the southern hemisphere, there is little buttress against the stiff westerlies that ransack the bottom of the world. These winds are omnipresent and relentless. They can, and will, blow you over at sea level and elevation. These are the winds that saw Magellan and his peers cross vast stretches of ocean on either side of the continent. As with any expedition, dress carefully. Pack for the wind, and heed the warning signs:

precaucion zona de fuertes vientos!

… If you get the chance, and need further evidence of the role played by Zephyros, visit the Monument to the Wind in Puerto Natales (above)

Places to Lodge

Capturing Patagonia is an active affair. Comfort while immersing in Patagonian delights is critical to a memorable adventure. Here are just a few suggestions to relieve the stress at the end of a long day. Find many more recommendations here.

Hotel Cabaña del Lago Puerto Varas - Puerto Montt. This full service spa and lakefront hotel is a great upscale lodging option, particularly for those travelers about to spend the next several days on Navimag heading into the heart of Patagonia. Located in Puerto Varas, 10 miles from Puerto Montt.

Kau Lodge - Puerto Natales. This charming little hotel sits right on the water, but easily within walking distance of town. This is a great place if you want to be in the mountains with great views of the day and night skies. It’s worth putting up with the trickling water.

Hotel Lago Gray - Torres del Paine. Great service and stunning views make this 4-star lodge a winner. From the hotel you can catch the views of the great spires of Torres del Paine, Gray Lake and Gray Glacier. The restaurant is first class.

Hosteria del Torres - Torres del Paine. This hosteria comes with all inclusive options. They offer horseback riding, vehicles, and guides. The restaurant is quite good!

Hosteria Restaurante America - Ushuaia. Located near the geographic center of Ushuaia, the Hosteria offers clean, mid-line service and is near the airport. The meals are excellent and if you chat up the chef just right, you might get a little extra with your meal. (He made me popcorn because he know I have an addiction.)

Hotel Albatros - Ushuaia. The Albatros is a great stop, located in front of the Beagle channel and ships heading to Antarctica. The hotel has a spa, concierge services, and an excellent restaurant.

Dining

Along with its breathtaking natural wonders, the food is good, sometimes spectacular. Here is a small selection of some additional recommendations based on personal experience. For even more, visit our Patagonian recommendations. We’re always updating.

Kau Lodge - Puerto Natales. A good lodging option as mentioned above. Comes with a top notch service and a cozy coffee-shop/restaurant to fuel up in the morning. The breakfasts are excellent.

Wake Up Cafe - Punta Arenas. A top-notch, quirky eatery, excellent for breakfasts and their delicious pastries.

Okusa Restaurant and Emporio -  Punta Arenas. Rustic charm and delicious Chilean food. Okusa looks like a cross between a London pub and local bodega. Offers a local menu and a wide selection of wine.

Mesita Grande - Punta Arenas. An Italian-Patagonian fusion specializing in pizza. The guanaco with arugula is a treat that visitors might find intriguing.

La Parrilla Restaurant - Ushuaia. This big, vaulted eatery is famous for its lamb, the torsos of which are stretched like textiles over metal grids that stand beside the open fire in the front window. Rated one of the best Argentine restaurants in the city.

Kalma Restaurante -   Ushuaia. High end dining with an eclectic and creative menu that seems to change daily. Kalma applies the concept of environmental cuisine where the ingredients are the product of Tierra del Fuego. Reservations recommended.

cover of 'Twas the Night Before Christmas     So beautiful it deserved to be resurrected. A classic edition of Clement Clarke Moore’s famous poem, celebrating its 200th anniversary this year. Digital edition on sale - only $2.99 'Twas the Night Before Christmas - 1912 Classic Edition.

Explore Further

Read about the extensive travels of my Vagabond-Adventure through Patagonia in the Vagabond Journal then follow our journey around the world traveling all seven continents.

For more suggestions, including additional information about the services and experiences throughout Patagonia, visit our Patagonian Recommendations. Recommendations are updated frequently. Leave any questions in the comments below or contact the Vagabond-Adventure to learn more.

Bottom Line

Patagonia is a land that inspires, revitalizes, and leaves an indelible mark on anyone who ventures there. Its charm lies in its raw, untamed beauty and its ability to awaken a sense of wonder within each visitor. So pack your bags, leave the world’s noise behind, and head to Patagonia. You won’t regret it. While you’re on your way, enjoy these two inspiring books about the region: Bruce Chatwin’s In Patagonia and Paul Theroux’s The Old Patagonian Express.

Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/a-perfect-patagonian-itinerary

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A Vagabond Adventure Mission

 If you love adventure, are looking to explore the most interesting places in the world and want great travel advice, then you’re in the right place.

See more: https://vagabond-adventure.com/

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Mastering the Art of the Perfect Surprise Getaway

 

It the Valentine Time of the Year - Perfect for a Surprise Getaway to those Out-of-the-Way Places With the One You Love

Designing a surprise trip for your loved one is an exhilarating challenge, filled with opportunities to create lasting memories. It’s not just about picking a destination but about weaving an experience that resonates deeply with your partner’s preferences and dreams. This comprehensive guide from A Vagabond’s Adventure will provide you with vital insights to meticulously plan a trip that not only surprises but profoundly delights your beloved.

Tailoring to Your Partner’s Taste

Understanding your partner's travel interests is the cornerstone of planning a successful surprise trip. Whether they revel in the thrill of adventure or bask in the tranquility of nature, pinpointing their preferences is essential. Do they want to really get away and try something off the beaten path like Morocco or Patagonia, or are they more interested in exploring a week in Baja California or the American West? This insight ensures the destination and activities align perfectly with their tastes, setting the stage for an experience that feels personally crafted and deeply thoughtful.

Harmonizing With Their Schedule

A seamless surprise trip requires meticulous alignment with your partner’s schedule. The art lies in discreetly ensuring their availability without giving away the surprise. This careful planning avoids potential conflicts, ensuring that your well-crafted surprise unfolds smoothly and is met with unbridled enthusiasm and availability.

Crafting a Heartfelt Invitation

Creating a personalized invitation injects a unique spark of excitement into your surprise getaway. Employing a free invitation maker, which allows your creativity to stand out, to design an invitation that beautifully reflects your partner's personal style not only heightens the anticipation but also infuses the surprise with a heartfelt touch. This considerate act, blending creativity with affection, significantly enriches the overall experience, conveying to your partner how deeply cherished and valued they are. Moreover, the use of a free invitation maker to stand out offers a cost-effective yet impressive way to add a professional flair to your thoughtful surprise.

Having Financial Foresight

Strategic budgeting is crucial in orchestrating a surprise trip that is both remarkable and financially responsible. Planning a budget that encompasses all aspects of the trip, from travel to leisure, ensures a delightful experience without the stress of overspending. This allows for a journey that’s enjoyable, not only in the moment but also in reflection, free from financial worries.

Finding Walkable Accommodations

Choosing accommodations that support a healthy lifestyle can significantly enhance your travel experience. Opting for a hotel or vacation home located in an area with a high Walk Score of 70 or above can make the trip a lot less stressful because it make its easy to reach plenty of destination with a minimum of hassle. No cabs or buses or vans to worry about. And walking to shops, restaurants, and attractions, puts some exercise into your daily itinerary. Such a choice not only contributes to your physical well-being, but also offers a unique and immersive way to explore your surroundings, making your trip both enjoyable and health-conscious. A Vagaboind-Advenure we walk everywhere and have plenty of examples of wonderful locations we’ve explored by foot from Maine to Western Europe to Norway.

Integrating Sentimental Elements

Incorporating sentimental elements into your trip can transform it from a simple getaway to an unforgettable journey. Whether it’s visiting a place with special memories or including favorite activities, these personal touches infuse the trip with emotional significance. Such thoughtful planning deepens your bond and makes the trip uniquely meaningful.

Prioritizing Health and Comfort

Ensuring your partner’s well-being during the trip is paramount. Choosing accommodations with wellness facilities, planning health-conscious activities, and maintaining a balanced diet underscores your care for their comfort and health. This thoughtful consideration not only enhances the enjoyment of the trip but also reflects your deep understanding and care for your partner’s preferences and needs.

If Your Traveling Overseas

Overseas trips require a little extra effort, especially when you’re planning trip for two. Make sure you both have your passports up-to-date (most countries require that your passport be good for at least 90 days in advance of your arrival at the country you’re visiting). Check with the United States State Department for info. Depending on the places you plan to visit, also check to make sure if you require visits or vaccinations too. The State Department cam also helps guide you on these issues.

Engineering an Unforgettable Reveal

The reveal of the surprise trip is as crucial as the trip itself. Crafting a unique and memorable way to unveil the surprise, whether it’s an ingenious scavenger hunt or a heartfelt note, sets the tone for the entire journey. This moment, filled with joy and surprise, becomes a cherished memory that enhances the entire travel experience.

Masterfully planning a surprise getaway for your partner is an art that involves more than just selecting a destination. It’s about understanding their desires, aligning with their life, and adding personal touches that speak volumes of your love and care. By following these insights, you can craft an extraordinary experience that not only surprises but also deeply resonates with your partner, strengthening your bond and creating unforgettable memories.

Be sure to join us on a Vagabond Adventure to explore the world's most interesting places, cultures, and stories, one epic journey at a time.

Resource: https://vagabond-adventure.com/library/the-art-of-a-suprise-getaway

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